Birmingham man who cheated death three times on Everest dies aged 70

A Birmingham man who cheated death three times whilst climbing Everest has died at the age of 70.

Former SAS soldier John “Brummie” Stokes was the third Briton to conquer Everest, but in doing so, nearly died.

In one expedition he lost all his toes to frostbite and when he tried again for a second time, he broke his neck.

On his third and final climb John was left near-paralysed.

John was born in Hamstead and grew up there before leaving to join the Army at 17, first in the Royal Green Jackets, then the SAS regiment.

During his 23-year military career he took part in active duty all overthe world, including the Falkland Islands, and was several times decorated.

He always loved mountaineering and with another SAS climber, Bronco Lane, joined an expedition to Nuptse, Everest’s near neighbour in 1975, which ended in tragedy when four men died.

Undeterred by these deaths, Brummie and Bronco went on an Army expedition to Everest the following year.

It was successful in that they made it to the summit, but on the way down they met appalling conditions, which resulted in both of them losing their toes through frostbite.

The pair did not let their disabilities stop their love of adventure and they learnt to walk, run and climb again with only half their feet.

Stokes returned to Everest in 1984 and climbed the forbidding North Face, but during an avalanche, base camp was wiped out, killing one member and leaving him with a broken neck.

A year later he left the Army but returned to Everest, this time climbing the only remaining unclimbed route, but at 26,000ft, the party was forced to abandon their assault owing to abnormally hazardous weather conditions.

Eventually, Stokes did tackle the unclimbed section, but the expedition caused him to suffer three attacks of cerebral oedema which partially paralysed him.

After leaving the forces, John started up the 'Taste for Adventure' centre in Credenhill in 1991, an outdoor activity centre for less privileged children.

He ran it with his wife Lynn and a team of qualified staff.

In 2004 Brummie was awarded an MBE in recognition of his work and continued to live in Hereford with his wife and their two sons.

His autobiography Soldiers and Sherpas: A Taste for Adventure was published in 1989.