Tributes to Doug Scott, the 'greatest mountaineer of his generation'

Tributes have been paid to intrepid mountaineer Doug Scott CBE, who made history conquering the world's toughest mountains.

The 79-year-old Englishman, who had cancer, wrote his name into the record books by being the first adventurer, along with Douglas Haston, to climb Mount Everest's south-west face rather than the "tourist friendly" route in 1975.

Two years later, he broke both legs while abseiling from the peak of The Ogre, a relatively uncharted peak in the Himalayas, and effectively crawled to base camp supported by two teammates.

Mr Scott, who was made a CBE in 1994, founded the Community Action Nepal (CAN) charity to help people in the Himalayas, and raised money for Nepal during the first national lockdown by climbing up and down his stairs.

He died on Monday at his home in the Lake District.

In a statement, the CAN said: "It is with a very heavy heart that we inform you that our founder, leader and great friend, Mr Doug Scott, passed away peacefully ... at his home with his family around him.

"Doug's family has asked for privacy at this time, but will be making a full and proper announcement in the coming days. We thank you all for your care and support."

Sir Chris Bonington, a life-long friend of Doug, posted a tribute on social media. It reads: "Doug Scott, my dear friend of fifty years, with whom I shared some of the greatest adventures of my life, passed away peacefully at his home in Cumbria with his family around him after a brief but intense mortal illness this morning, 7 December.

"Beside his outstanding mountaineering achievements, the charity he founded, Community Action Nepal has enriched the lives of a huge number of people in the foothills of the Himalaya in Nepal.

Adventurer Alastair Humphreys said: "I'm sorry to hear that mountaineer Doug Scott has died. A life filled with adventure and purpose."

Mountaineer Kenton Cool added: "Possibly the greatest mountaineer of his generation."

A statement on behalf of the British Embassy in Mr Scott's beloved Nepal said: "We remember Doug Scott CBE not only for his mountaineering feats but as a true friend of Nepal whose support helped build health posts in rural villages.

"His feats also remind us of the importance of protecting our mountains from climate change."

Mr Scott conquered the so-called Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each continent.

Recalling his 1977 Ogre odyssey and the team who helped him crawl back to safety, Mr Scott said: "On the mountain I was just 100% right there, just getting across that next bit. I didn't do it one day at a time, even. Just one nub or rock, pick another objective, get to that.

"A conjuring trick happened and they (the teammates) disappeared from the plot.

"Without those two I would not have got off the mountain."